When most people think of Laos, images of Beer Lao, tubing along the Nam Song River, and the serene beauty of its landscapes likely come to mind. The idea of French food in this Southeast Asian country seems almost too far-fetched. I certainly didn’t believe it at first, and my experiences with French food in the region hadn’t been very promising. My one visit to a French restaurant in Vietnam left me unimpressed, with a Croque Monsieur that tasted no better than a basic cheese toastie from a convenience store. But all that changed one rainy afternoon in Savannakhet, a small town in southern Laos, where I stumbled upon something truly unexpected.
A Hidden French Gem in Savannakhet
Savannakhet, a sleepy town with a run-down plaza, is not exactly where you’d expect to find outstanding French cuisine. The colonial-era buildings, although charming, have long since been left behind by the town’s main street. Despite this, I found myself walking into Daosavanh Restaurant, a place that seemed more like a forgotten relic of another time than a thriving culinary destination.
I entered the restaurant on a whim, seeking shelter from the heavy rain. I had already enjoyed a light breakfast of noodle soup and a baguette sandwich, so I wasn’t planning to eat much. However, I couldn’t resist ordering olives from the menu – a personal favorite. To my surprise, these were the best olives I had tasted, not only in Southeast Asia but possibly anywhere. The flavor was rich and satisfying, completely changing my expectations for the meal.
The Croque Madame – A Dish That Surprised Me
With my appetite piqued by the unexpected delight of the olives, I decided to try a Croque Madame, though I was skeptical. French food in Laos, I thought, would surely be overpriced and underwhelming. When my dish arrived, I was disappointed to see it served with a squirt of ketchup and a salt shaker on the side, but I took a bite nonetheless. To my astonishment, the Croque Madame was delicious – simple yet flavorful. The quality was far beyond what I expected, and I couldn’t help but compare it to my recent dining experiences in Paris, where I didn’t eat food nearly as good, let alone for such a low price. My entire meal, including a large bottle of Beer Lao Gold, cost me just 72,000 Kip (around US$10).
Daosavanh – The Restaurant with a Hidden Reputation
I wasn’t the only one impressed with Daosavanh Restaurant, even though it seemed to fly under the radar. While Savannakhet sees very few tourists, the few who do pass through this area might have heard about this place. It wasn’t long before I found online mentions of the restaurant, with one from Frommer’s praising it for perfection and another calling it the best French restaurant in southern Laos. Still, this hidden gem was not well-known enough to attract large crowds, and during my visit, I was the only customer in sight. The experience felt surreal, as I sat with a glass of wine, savoring olives, and watching the local cats chase dogs in the empty square outside.
An Affordable Taste of Gourmet French Food
On my second visit, I was determined to sample more of the menu. With a tiny budget and no high expectations, I decided to indulge myself in a three-course set meal. For just 95,000 Kip (about US$12), I enjoyed grilled beef rib-eye with Herbes de Provence, a pepper sauce, and crispy French fries. The meal also included a fresh garden salad and a dessert of ice cream. The steak was perfectly cooked, though the portion size could have been larger. Despite my regular access to good steaks, I found the overall quality of the ingredients impressive, and I was struck by the uniqueness of the meal. The slow-cooked duck leg with olives, which was also available for the same price, probably would have been an even better choice.
French Cuisine: A New Reason to Visit Laos
Laos had never been at the top of my travel list, especially since I didn’t find its local cuisine as exciting as that of its neighbors, Thailand and Vietnam. But after experiencing such excellent French food in Savannakhet, my view of Laos has completely changed. Now, I find myself eager to return to explore more of the country’s hidden French culinary spots. The charm of Daosavanh Restaurant, with its unexpectedly high-quality dishes and affordable prices, has left a lasting impression on me. Looking back, I’m still unsure what exactly wowed me – the surprise of finding such great food in an unlikely place or the exceptional quality of the dishes themselves. Regardless, French food is now one of my main reasons for visiting Laos in the future.
