Aoraki National Park, home to the famous Mueller Hut, was the setting for the first of many hikes during our 10-day New Zealand trip. While I had mentally prepared for the hikes we’d be taking, the reality of the challenges ahead didn’t quite hit me until the math of the hikes was laid out. And, as someone who doesn’t exactly excel in calculations, I quickly realized I had underestimated the difficulty, especially the elevation gains.

To prepare physically, Disa (my hiking buddy) and I spent a lot of time on the StairMaster at the gym. I was eager to tackle the hikes in New Zealand, but a conversation with Disa revealed I had made a critical mistake when calculating the elevation gain. I had accounted for the entire roundtrip distance rather than just the uphill section, which meant I was in for more of a challenge than I originally thought. The Mueller Hut trail, in particular, was far more daunting than I had anticipated—boasting an elevation gain of 1,150 feet per mile, more than triple what I’m usually comfortable with. However, Disa reassured me that we’d be fine, though the sheer number of hikes we were doing in such a short time did raise some doubts.

A Look at the Mueller Hut

Located in the Aoraki Mount Cook National Park at an elevation of about 6,000 feet, the Mueller Hut trail is a true test for any hiker. The trail was opened in 2003 by Sir Edmund Hillary, the first person to summit Mount Everest. Hillary didn’t design a trail for beginners—his route takes you through alpine landscapes that are both harsh and stunning. Though some people attempt it as a day hike, the real reward is staying overnight in the hut, after a demanding trek to the top.

What to Expect on the Trail

New Zealand is a small country brimming with jaw-dropping mountains that seem to call out to adventurers. But while the country invites exploration, it doesn’t make it easy. Mueller Hut is no exception.

Let me put it in simple terms: imagine spending four hours on a StairMaster, carrying a 15-pound pack, under the harsh midday sun. That’s roughly equivalent to climbing the Mueller Hut trail. The trail is so steep in parts that it features 1,500 stairs in one section—equivalent to an 80-story building. To put it in perspective, that’s taller than the Columbia Tower in Seattle. And once you’ve made it through the stairs, there’s a challenging uphill scramble across loose gravel and boulders. All of this leads to the ridge, but even then, you’re not done yet. The Mueller Hut trail is demanding, to say the least.

Starting the Hike

We began our hike on a sunny morning, heading from White Horse Hill Campground to the visitor center. Unfortunately, upon arrival, we were met with an unexpected challenge: the weather was not in our favor. The park staff strongly advised against staying overnight in the hut, as severe weather was predicted for the next day. We were offered full refunds and told to consider making it a day hike instead. This news was a huge disappointment, as we had come so far and had been looking forward to the full experience.

After reviewing the weather forecast, we decided to press on. The winds were expected to reach 30-50 mph, and there was a chance of rain. But having come all this way, we decided to keep our overnight tickets and play it by ear once we reached the top.

Act I: The Death Stairs

We hit the trailhead at 12:30 PM, and the weather was already scorching hot. With our overnight gear on our backs, we set off, determined to reach the top before the incoming storm. The first half-mile of the trail is deceptively easy, but as soon as we encountered the stairs, the true nature of the hike revealed itself.

The stairs were relentless, each step a battle. We tackled the first mile by taking breaks after every ten steps, using nearby landmarks like rocks and bushes as targets for our mini-goals. The wooden stairs seemed endless, and I couldn’t help but wonder who had carried all that wood up the mountain. It was brutal, but the views were always breathtaking.

Act II: The Rocky Madness

After conquering the stairs, we took a break at the unofficial lunch spot. There, we spoke with some German hikers who had been turned back by the weather. They had also planned to stay overnight but were advised to head down early. We decided to continue, hoping to beat the storm.

The next section was a mix of loose gravel and boulders, and it was steep and tiring. However, there were helpful orange poles marking the way, which provided us with a sense of direction and small breaks. The ridge was visible in the distance, and though it seemed close, it still felt far away.

Act III: The Final Push

Upon reaching the top of the ridge, the landscape was awe-inspiring—rocky and barren, with towering mountains in the distance. As we neared the hut, we could see the red structure standing out against the grey rocks. When we finally reached it, we found it empty, with only a weather report on the board warning of severe conditions ahead: 120 mph winds and up to 15 inches of rain.

We spent a brief moment taking in the views, with Mount Cook dominating the skyline. But soon after, we felt the first drops of rain and knew it was time to head down. We bid farewell to a man and his son who were determined to stay overnight despite the worsening weather, and made the decision to descend before the storm hit.

Act IV: The Descent

The journey down was just as tough as the climb. Descending the same 1,500 stairs was far from pleasant, and the wind was picking up. As we crossed the boulder fields again, we could feel the storm rolling in. Thankfully, we made it down in time to avoid the worst of it, although the weather had already started to shift drastically in just a few short miles.

On our descent, we encountered a group of kea birds, known as the clowns of New Zealand. They were playfully hopping around, trying to eat plastic and metal, and their antics were a welcome distraction from the tough descent.

When we finally reached the campground, we were exhausted but relieved. After a hot meal and a long shower, we settled into the van, lulled to sleep by the sound of wind and rain.

The Verdict

Despite the weather challenges and my personal complaints about the stairs, the Mueller Hut hike was an unforgettable experience. The stunning views, the rugged terrain, and the sense of accomplishment made it all worthwhile. While I’m not sure I’d do it again, I would highly recommend this hike to those who are prepared for a challenge. It’s an experience that showcases the raw beauty of New Zealand’s mountains, and it’s one that will stay with me for a long time.