If you’re heading to Cusco, Peru, you’ve probably heard about the Rainbow Mountains—Vinicunca and Palccoyo. These stunning natural wonders have become a popular attraction, with many visitors opting for large tour groups. However, exploring them without a tour can be a much more enjoyable and unique experience. Plus, it allows you to avoid the massive crowds that typically swarm these sites.

Here’s a step-by-step guide to visiting the Rainbow Mountains independently, so you can enjoy these breathtaking landscapes at your own pace.

Step 1: Take a Bus from Cusco to Checacupe

Most organized tours leave Cusco as early as 3 a.m. to “beat the crowds.” But if you’re venturing out on your own, there’s no need to wake up that early. The best approach is to catch a collectivo (shared minibus) from Avenida Tomasa Tito Condemayla (right across from the hospital) between 8 and 9 a.m. These minibuses head to Ocongate, and you can tell the driver you want to get off in Checacupe.

Cost: 7-8 Soles one way
Travel time: Approximately 2 hours

Pro Tip: On the Maps.me app, you can find the bus stop marked as “buses to Tinke, Ccatcca, Ocongate.”

Step 2: Take a Taxi from Checacupe

Once you arrive in Checacupe, you’ll find a taxi stand where you can catch a ride to either Vinicunca or Palccoyo. The taxi to Vinicunca costs around 100-120 Soles, while a ride to Palccoyo will run you about 150-200 Soles, depending on how well you negotiate.

Make sure to confirm with the taxi driver that they’ll wait for you while you hike and then take you back to Checacupe.

Pro Tip: Checacupe is a small town, but you can find public toilets for 1 Sol and small shops where you can grab snacks. Tour groups also stop here, so it’s a good place to gather supplies.

Step 3: Hike to the Rainbow Mountain

If you’re headed to Vinicunca, it’s a roughly 2-hour drive from Checacupe to the starting point, which should get you there by noon or early afternoon. This gives you plenty of time to hike to the summit. While you’re hiking, you’ll likely pass several tour groups on their way back down.

For Palccoyo, the drive is a little longer at about 2.5 hours, but the hike itself is much shorter and easier, so you can enjoy the stunning views of the rainbow-colored landscapes with less effort.

Both hikes are well-marked, so it’s hard to get lost. If you need direction, just ask your taxi driver for some guidance.

Pro Tip: The cold and high altitude drained my phone’s battery at the top of Vinicunca. Be sure to bring a spare battery pack.

Entrance Fee: 10 Soles

Step 4: Return to Checacupe

Aim to catch your taxi back to Checacupe by 4 p.m. to avoid hiking in the dark. With some luck, the weather will be clear, and you’ll have stunning photos to share from your adventure.

Step 5: Catch the Bus Back to Cusco

From Checacupe, you can easily catch a bus back to Cusco. The buses depart regularly from the same main road you arrived on. If you’re unsure, just ask your taxi driver, and they’ll point you to the bus stop. We caught the bus at 7 p.m. and arrived in Cusco by 9 p.m.

Quick Recap:

• Take a collectivo from Cusco to Checacupe around 8 a.m.
• Negotiate a taxi to either Vinicunca or Palccoyo around 10 a.m.
• Start your hike to Rainbow Mountain between 12 and 1 p.m.
• Head back to Checacupe around 4 p.m.
• Catch a bus back to Cusco around 7 p.m.

It’s as simple as that!

Things to Keep in Mind

While visiting Rainbow Mountain independently offers the chance to avoid crowds, be aware that you’ll be alone on the trail, except for a few alpacas. The Vinicunca hike can be physically challenging, especially if you’re not acclimated to the altitude. Some tour companies provide oxygen masks and coca tea to help with the altitude, so if you’re concerned, you may prefer to travel with a guide.

Alternatively, if you’re struggling with the hike, you can pay to ride a horse to the top of Vinicunca.

Also, keep in mind that weather in the mountains can be unpredictable. I was fortunate with one visit and unlucky with another. A tip I heard from taxi drivers in Cusco: if it’s raining in the city, it’s likely snowing in the mountains. It’s best to go on a clear day if you can.

Regardless of the weather, the views are worth the effort, and even bad weather can make the experience more memorable.

Final Thoughts

Exploring Rainbow Mountain on your own is a rewarding experience, offering the opportunity to enjoy these natural wonders without the crowds. With a bit of planning and a sense of adventure, you can make the most of your visit to one of Peru’s most iconic landmarks.